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History Semi Precious
GemStone Beads
The history of gemstones is rich with stories of adventures, of
legends, of tales of good fortune or curses resulting in financial
ruin, ill health, or even death. Throughout antiquity, gemstones
have been worn as a talisman, valued for their healing properties
and endowed with spiritual values. The magical and mystical properties
that are ascribed to gemstones have much to do with their rarity,
beauty, feel, and colour.
Gems have long been seen as exotic, rare and valuable. Many were
carried long distances along perilous trade routes from distant
and unknown lands, which added to their wonder and their value.
As different gemstones have become available, fashions have changed
and preferences have varied worldwide. Nowadays, a DIAMOND is thought
of as the ultimate gem, worn in engagement rings and given as a
token of love, but this has not always been the case.
At various times in the past, TURQUOISE, AMETHYST, LAPIS LAZULI,
JASPER, and CARNELIAN have all been regarded as the ultimate gem.
JADE was a favourite in China and Mexico. The ancient Egyptians
and the civilizations of Central and South America valued EMERALDS.
Emeralds, SAPPHIRES, AMETHYST, jasper and carnelian were the Romans'
preferred choice, while diamonds were used to engrave cameos rather
than be worn as jewellery.
Many of the stories associated with gemstones have been handed down
by word of mouth. Others are gleaned from the diaries and letters
of travellers or collectors or as entries in the inventories of
Drivate collections, museums or royalty. In the 13th century, Marco
Polo (c.1254-1324), a trader from Venice, travelled to Asia and
wrote in his journal, The Book of Marvels, that he carried sapphires
as calling cards when he visited the court of Kublai Khan, the Mongol
Emperor. The sapphires were from southwest Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon),
from the area around Ratnapura ('City of Gems' in Sinhalese). In
the 17th century, the French merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1605-89)
made his fortune by trading in gemstones. Tavernier made six trips
to India 3rd Persia (now Iran) between 1631 and 1668, described
many large diamonds and acquired a number of gems, some of which
were sold :o King Louis XIV of France.
Most of the famous, named gemstones are diamonds. Renaming and recutting
as ownership changes may complicate their history and the secrecy
surrounding some gems and their whereabouts makes confirmation of
size, shape and weight difficult if not impossible. Museum specimens
can be researched and some famous diamonds can be recognized from
paintings or photographs, but those that are bought at auction by
an 'unknown private buyer', or those that are lost or are the victims
of theft, simply 'disappear', sometimes for many years. The azure'
Nassak' (now 43 carats but originally 9Ocarats), also known as The
Eye of the Idol', was placed in the forehead of a statue of Shiva
at a temple in Nassak, India, but disappeared when British troops
looted the temple in 1818. In 1927 it resurfaced and was recut in
New York.
The oldest diamonds with the longest histories largely originate
from the alluvial deposits of the Golconda region of south-central
India. They include the Koh-i-Noor, Orlov, Regent (Pitt), and Hope
diamonds. Some of the largest and most famous diamonds are from
the Premier Mine in South Africa, including the Cullinan and the
Taylor-Burton (cut 69.42 carats). The largest diamonds in the world,
the Golden Jubilee or Unnamed Brown (545.67 carats) and the De Beers
Millennium Star (203 carats, which took ten people two years to
cut) are both African. In 1988 the Centenary diamond (599 carats
uncut, 273.85 carats cut) was cut by the company De Beers to celebrate
the 100th anniversary of its De Beers Consolidated mining operations.
Famous coloured diamonds include the blue Hope diamond, the Dresden
Green, and the golden-yellow Tiffany diamond (cut 128.54 carats).
Other blue diamonds include the Townshend Blue (in the Victoria
and Albert Museum, London), and the aforementioned pale blue Nassak.
The Dresden Green is the world's largest pear-shaped green diamond
(41 carats) and, apart from occasional loans, it has been kept in
the vaults at Dresden Palace since its purchase by Frederick Augustus
11 of Saxony for US$1 50,000 at a Leipzig fair in 1743.
Today, pink diamonds from the Argyle mines in Western Australia
are particularly prized. In 1986, a huge diamond referred to as
the 'Unnamed Brown' was used by De Beers to test their new laser
cutting technology. The diamond weighed 755.50 carats when rough
and 545.7 carats once cut. It was renamed the 'Golden Jubilee' after
its presentation to King Rama IX of Thailand in celebration of 50
years on the throne Another brown diamond is the 'Incomparable'
(407 carats) found in the Democratic Republic of Congo (formerly
Zaire) in 1980. Black diamonds have been cut weighing more than
115 carats. The Black Orlov or 'Eye of Brahma' cushion-cut black
diamond (67.50 carats, not to be confused with the Orlov, see P.
36) is said to have been stolen from a shrine in Pondicherry southern
India, and to have weighed 195 carats in the rough.
Other famous gemstones include the red spinels known as the Black
Prince's ruby (in the British crown jewels) and the Kuwait ruby
(formerly the Timur ruby), Saint Edward's sapphire and the Stuart
sapphire (both in the British crown jewels), the Devonshire emerald,
the Edwardes ruby, and the Rosser Reeves Reeves and Appalachian
Star rubies.
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